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Coffee Guide Brighton

our personal coffee guide
to Brighton

Wherever we travel, we look out for small local coffee shops. In some places it can become quite a challenge to find even one café, where we would want to go back day after day. But in Brighton the real question became: How much caffeine can we handle in a single day?
It’s almost ridiculous how many nice cafés you find! All of them serving incredibly great specialty coffee and waiting to “Brighton your day”.
Hence we put our personal favorites together in our Brighton Coffee Guide.

DE | EN

coffee at 33

@coffeeat33 / 33 Trafalgar St.

Not our first find, but definitely our favourite, that we’d gladly stuffed into our pocket and taken back home. The whole place is understatement. Opening the door, you instantly know that it’s not about design or trying to impress, but purely about coffee.
Without music, without wifi or anything else really, it is the pleasure of happiness served in a cup. And while the interior is very minimal, you can feel a genuine warmth with witch customers are treated. We witnessed countless small personal chats, even when the coffee was ordered to take away.
It really felt like a family of regulars. And I remember me saying, that this place itself might be a reason to move to Brighton. 

pelicano coffee roasters

@pelicano_house / 28 Sydney St.

Searching for a place that feels like home? Then go to „Pelicano“. We’ve always been in love with those classic English homes and houses. Pelicano is situated in one of those lovely gems right in the middle of the buzz at Sydney Street. So technically you can drink your morning coffee while people watching. Best spot: The little table for two on the first floor right by the window. If you get that one, just sit down, drink a trillion of coffees and start writing that book, you’ve always been afraid of. Also: Definitely eat one of their countless cakes. Or two. Book writing is tough or so I heard.
In case the window spot is taken: Nevermind. Go and check the backyard, where you can also get a glimpse on Pelicano’s micro roastery.
And if you’re still not convinced: They also do serve tea directly sourced from small family farms! AND one part of the owner-Duo, Sol from Korea, does all the graphics and artworks herself. That adds a very personal and unique layer to it, doesn’t it?

redroaster coffee

@redroastercafe / 1D St James’s St

Time to put your fancy pants on! Redroaster Coffee in Kemptown is one of THE coffee pioneers in the whole south of England. The oldest roastery in Brighton, they’re roasting and serving coffee for over 18 years now.
That said, Mama got a facelift, and what a shiny one!
„World Interiors Designer of the Year“, Hana Hakim, brought some gold, some white marble and a ton of greenery.  Redroaster
(named after the former red roaster) turned into a botanical wellness oasis.
Treat yourself on their „Wellness Wednesdays“ or at the weekends „Bottomless Brunch“. Or maybe even do the fine dining at
„Pike & Pine“, which is the night time incarnation of Redroaster.
To be honest, as we prefer our coffee black, it’s been quite an effort to cope with all the Extravaganza, but that doesn’t change the „holy moly“.
For us it’s probably more of a dinner pick, followed by Espresso Martini or Espresso Ale.  But for everyone curious for real morning madness:
Redroaster is your spot in Brighton!

bond st. coffee

@bondstcoffee / 15 Bond St.

One of the best things while traveling? Coincidently bumping into nice places and people! That happened to us with Bondstreet Coffee: Walking past it with a serious coffee thirst, we figured it looked to inviting not to risk a glimpse. And as you can tell by the picture,
that was a decision well made:
What a fun and warm welcome!
Plus: One of their Single Origin Coffees comes from a farm called „San Pedro“. What also happens to be the name of the farm of our personal all time favourite coffee. Not the same farm, but that still counts as a sign, doesn’t it?
They do light to medium roasts, to emphasise the natural, subtle and complex flavours of the coffee. Just how we like it. All their seasonal changing coffees are sourced from privately owned farms and co-operatives. Their main goal is to establish fair, sustainable and long-term relationships with the farmers. Buying one of their „Relationship Coffees“ you can be sure, they are directly sourced and the farmers are paid at least 25% over the official fair trade price! Enough of the fan talk, check it for yourself and let the coffee speak!

Small Batch Coffee Roasters

@smallbatchcr / 17 Jubilee St.

Did we mention that there are just too many nice coffee spots in this town? So here is another one, where we really liked the attitude (and the coffee).
Small Batch describe themselves as „coffee nerds, not coffee snobs“. And that they not only serve coffee, but produce, roast and basically „eat, breathe and sleep coffee“. Let’s call it passion, shall we? By now they’ve built up a small empire with a total of 8 locations in Brighton + Hove.
With their earnings they support local and worldwide charities. Like  providing clean water, fighting rare (but common) diseases in africa or helping feed the homeless.
A truly humble empire, that still calls itself a family. And in case you like Nick Cave just as much as we do: Their flagship store is located on Jubilee Street. So you can sip your coffee there, sitting by the window, listening to the song with the same name…

That’s our Top 5 (for now). As mentioned before: Brighton has so many different coffee spots (it even got named the UK coffee capital back in 2014!), that there are still plenty on our list, where we haven’t been to yet. Hence your recommendations for our next trip to Brighton are more than welcome to hej@onthenorway.com


CARROW COFFEE

DE | EN

carrow coffee roasters 

Roasting in the Irish countryside

We are coffee lovers. And as we have our trusted coffee dealer at home – and always some of their coffee in our bags while traveling -, we never stop looking for local coffee roasters when on the road.

It’s been on our very last days in Ireland, when we (very literally) „stranded“ on a campside in Strandhill.  And luckily so, we were right in time for the „Strandhill People’s Market“. Located in one of the hangars at Sligo Airport, it really is the market of the Strandhill people. Everything we saw was selfcooked, selfbrewed or selfmade. All stalls belong to small local businesses. And between Asian food stalls, fresh herbs + spices, ceramics, soaps and artsy prints, we found…who would have guessed… a local coffee producer: Andrew Willis from “Carrow Coffee Roasters“.

After a little chat, as well as trying some of their coffee, Andrew invited us to meet him again on their family farm the next day, where – only since late 2017! – the small specialty coffee roastery is located.

Welcome to Carrowgarry, home of roasting, but also sole name giver of Carrow Coffee Roasters!

Leaving the main road, we were stunned by the beautiful path leading us through greenery and into a group of huge lush trees. Quite an entry. Carrowgarry belongs to Andrews family in the sixth generation, and it surely looks like a dream come true for townspeople like us. The romantic beauty of it almost let us forget the huge work that comes with running a farm like this…

We meet Andrew at the farmstead, where he also explains to us that Carrowgarry mainly is a sheep and vegetable farm, but more on this later.

Passing a big wooden barn, a tractor and a few sheep, we reach Andrews pride and joy: Looking all fresh and shiny a little wooden house greets us warmly. Hidden inside: Their brand new roasting machine. It is impossible to stand in a room like this and not feel the urge of a nice cup of coffee in your hands…

Carrow Coffee is all about the light and medium roasts, that allow „a bean’s intrinsic flavour to shine through“ as they put it. Sourcing their beans from small farms, the range might change from season to season, but that is a diversity they celebrate. Currently there is Espresso from Minas Gerais in Brazil, as well as two filter coffees, from Rwanda and the Colombian Andes.

And Colombia actually is the country where this whole idea started: With his roots in journalism Andrew spent four years traveling Colombia on assignment, visiting farms and learning everything he could about the coffee production process.

Back then living in a small apartment in Bogota with Paola, he began taking roasting and cupping classes and finally started his very own roasting experiments in the attic of their apartment.

And when they decided to start their own coffee business once back in Ireland, everything came together just perfectly, as Paolas family roots lie in Trieste, the coffee infused hometown of Illy in Italy.

While she also brings her knowledge as a project and communications manager to their business, that still isn’t the whole story of these two. We are leaving the roaster shack to meet Paola in the vegetable garden. Wearing rubber boots and gloves, she’s bringing new plants into the ground. Potatoes and onions, kale and leeks, rhubarb and apples, flowers and herbs… you name it.

A very humble attitude surrounds both of them, as they tell us about the hard every day work and the year to year struggle. Still we can feel that this is the place where they belong: Growing organic vegetables without the use of chemicals, roasting coffee from small farmers and living by the sea and with their family. Sometimes they flee cold Ireland in winter to spend the Christmas Holidays with Paolas family in Italy. With the roots of their story spread across the globe, their own roots grow deeper into the soil of Carrowgarry with each year and season.

Of course we took some of their bags home with us – but, funny enough, we might even get the chance to get a proper cup served here in Berlin every now and then, as Andrews cousin Tom runs the „Mint Café“ in our home district Pankow. Time to visit there soon!

Photography

Constantin Gerlach, Laura Droße

Words

Laura Droße


Roadtrip Norway – A CONSTANT CHANGE

DE | EN

Roadtrip Norway

A constant Change

Experiencing how the weather changes between high plains and small cities by the sea. Losing track of time in between fjords and roads. Exploring some 3.000km Norway by car, ferry and foot. That is our idea as we are leaving Germany far behind and start to our first venture North #onthenorway.

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RUNDE – finding home

DE | EN

runde

finding home

Completely unexpected we found a place, we knew we could stay forever.
The island of Runde, Norway.

Both of us had never been to Norway before. But with our known love for the wild and untamed Atlantic Ocean, rough coasts, solitary islands (and people), we expected to fall in love.
And yes, we did find those places, we found solitude and storms, we felt pure and alive and we did wish that we could stay many more weeks – or maybe forever?

Runde. A tiny outpost on the western coast of Norway, a little south to Ålesund.
To reach it, you have to hop over nine other islands, so you basically only end up there if you intend to.
Except if you totally didn’t intend to – but then get stuck in exhausting rainy stormy Norwegian weather and try to find the nearest campground.

We had never before heard the name Runde, nor did we know anything about it. I quickly looked it up on my phone, that told me:
„Runde is a little island, known for its bird populations.“
Then I looked up the route and burst out with laughter, when tiny Runde with its sole paved road appeared on Google Maps.
The island itself looked like a bird returning home from across the Atlantic.

So we past the nine islands, crossed the last bridge and followed the road almost until its end.
It was in the evening, we were exhausted, tired and hungry. We went asking for a cabin in the little shop we saw and we were lucky. Not only did we get a lovely home for the night, but also some food and drinks. And as we sat down with a simple plate of pasta watching the ocean in front of our window, we couldn’t have been more grateful.
That was also when we saw our feathered neighbour for the first time.

Falling asleep, we both knew we wouldn’t be leaving the next day.

In the morning we didn’t have to argue about it, and after our first coffee we quickly went back to the shop to extend our stay.
At first Inguna looked sad, as she had to tell us, a class of school kids was expected and all cabins were booked…
but then a smirk flew over her face and she said „there might be something…“.
She quickly asked Knut, her husband, then came back to explain that only few people are allowed to live in this „special place“.
When we followed Knut a few minutes later, a huge smile appeared on both our faces as we realised:
We would be sleeping in that tiny house, that we saw when we entered the island the day before. That tiny house, where we both thought
how cute it was and what a dreamy place to live. That tiny house, standing there on stony rocks, bracing the storms of the Atlantic.
That tiny house, formerly the pilot hut of Runde.

That is where we found our home.
We spent hours in our own backyard by the lighthouse.
Hiking on the black rocks, listening to the roaring water, watching the change from white to turqouise to dark blue and back.
The open water before us, the protective hill behind and in the middle our little perfect cabin.
Almost humble it was standing there, completely unaware of its importance to the sailors back in the day – or to us in this exact moment.

For us Runde became the one single place in Norway we’d be missing the most.
Not the majestic fjords, not the snowy mountain roads, not even the endless scapes of fjells and woods, where we also felt deepest bliss.
We dream ourselves back in that special little white wooden cabin by the sea.
On the island with its one single road that ends in front of a mountain.
To its birds, its sounds, its silence.

Its a longing we will have to answer, when once more we’ll drive over nine islands to meet the bird that crossed the Atlantic.

photography

Constantin Gerlach, Laura Droße

words

Laura Droße


Ísland – all is connected

64° 8‘ 7 n, -21° 53‘ 43 w

Ísland

all is connected

Iceland let me fall out of my usual state of mind. Completely.
Even having traveled to all sort of different places, I’d never felt so remote before.
All the noises of the man made world disappeared.

Finding places where I could look around 360° without seeing a building, a person or anything really, maybe some horses in the distance.
The road I’m standing on, the only one for miles and miles, suddenly feels misplaced. Pushes me to step off the pavement and onto the grass.
Breath in, breath out, breath in – hold it for one second.
Suddenly I realize that it’s possible to imagine this world without humans.
It’s calm. It’s peaceful. I’m the intruder.

The Icelandic horses I mentioned?
Seeing them standing stoically in cold wind and never ending rain:
if survival is the goal, there is a lot one can adapt to.

It is a magical thing to experience that unfamiliar silence.
It widens the mind, opens the senses and especially with no one around, I started to feel a connection, that I too easily forget in our concrete palaces:
to the earth, the planet, the „real“ home, where we’re all from.
Hi there.

Midnight. Dark sky. Cold little raindrops land on my face.
My feet can feel the wet, soft mud under them.
I’m surrounded by cosy warm water and the raindrops form circles on the surface.
Without my glasses, everything gets blurry in the distance.
Blurry leaveless trees build a mystical background for the golden traces of steam, rising to the sky.

Did I dream that?

Next day, next lection in Icelandic scenery:
a greenhouse – filled with tomato plants, taller than me.
Yes, I’m sure that I am fully awake.
The affiliated restaurant serves tomato soup, tomato juice and tomato… ice cream.
Apparently everything on this island feels a little off.

When at my next stop a guy excavates the bread, that I am supposed to try, right next from the earth by the river, it almost feels perfectly natural.

Back to those horses.
They are not the only ones here, who adapt.
100% sustainable energy is possible.
And it could be elsewhere, too!

I do believe that it takes the will to change something above all else.
Check this website, if you’re curious to learn more:
www.geothermalexhibition.com

photography

Laura Droße

words

Laura Droße


Ísland


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